Wave run-up prediction and observation in a micro-tidal beach

Abstract. Extreme weather events bear a significant impact on coastal human activities and on the related economy. Forecasting and hindcasting the action of sea storms on piers, coastal structures and beaches is an important tool to mitigate their effects. To this end, with particular regard to low coasts and beaches, we have developed a computational model chain based partly on open-access models and partly on an ad-hoc-developed numerical calculator to evaluate beach wave run-up levels and flooding. The offshore wave simulations are carried out with a version of the WaveWatch III model, implemented by CCMMMA (Campania Centre for Marine and Atmospheric Monitoring and Modelling – University of Naples Parthenope), validated with remote-sensing data. The waves thus computed are in turn used as initial conditions for the run-up calculations, carried out with various empirical formulations; the results were finally validated by a set of specially conceived video-camera-based experiments on a micro-tidal beach located on the Ligurian Sea. Statistical parameters are provided on the agreement between the computed and observed values. It appears that, while the system is a useful tool to properly simulate beach flooding during a storm, empirical run-up formulas, when used in a coastal vulnerability context, have to be carefully chosen, applied and managed, particularly on gravel beaches

Sea-level change and the supralittoral environment: Potential impact on a splashpool habitat on the Ligurian coast (NW Mediterranean)

Climate change represents one of the major drivers of habitat modification that is affecting a wide variety of environments. In coastal environments, great effort is being put in trying to understand and forecast the possible effects of such processes, and the Sea-Level Rise (SLR) is one of the most investigated phenomena. This paper describes the possible effects of different 2100 sea-level scenarios related to greenhouse gas mitigation policies (Representative Concentration Pathways - RCPs). This work was conducted on a supralittoral habitat situated in Genova (Ligurian Sea), and has covered an eventual change of environmental conditions driven by SLR, which might impact the Culicid Acartomyiamariae, a resident species. The wave run-up stemming from the different RCPs was simulated using the XBeach model, and to infer SLR effects on A. mariae life cycle; the results were coupled with data obtained from field surveys. The model outputs highlighted a variation in the wave run-up oscillations under common wave conditions, which might affect the supralittoral area in terms of water input and hydric balance, and the A. mariae life cycle, which is highly dependent on temperature and salinity

Rip current evidence by hydrodynamic simulations, bathymetric surveys and UAV observation

Abstract. The prediction of the formation, spacing and location of rip currents is a scientific challenge that can be achieved by means of different complementary methods. In this paper the analysis of numerical and experimental data, including RPAS (remotely piloted aircraft systems) observations, allowed us to detect the presence of rip currents and rip channels at the mouth of Sele River, in the Gulf of Salerno, southern Italy. The dataset used to analyze these phenomena consisted of two different bathymetric surveys, a detailed sediment analysis and a set of high-resolution wave numerical simulations, completed with Google EarthTM images and RPAS observations. The grain size trend analysis and the numerical simulations allowed us to identify the rip current occurrence, forced by topographically constrained channels incised on the seabed, which were compared with observations

Assessment of Subsurface Neolithic/ Palaeolithic sites in the Southern Gargano Area, Apulia, Italy using a 3D geo-electric resistivity approach

Caves are important sediment traps both for sediment formed inside and for sediments transported from outside into the caves. The stratigraphic reconstruction of the cave\u2019s deposits combined with the study of the archaeological and biological contents (remains of plants or animals) provides an excellent record of the climatic changes happened in the cave and offers information about landscape evolution. Since the study area close to Manfredonia, Southern Gargano, Italy is characterized by important archaeological sites (Occhiopinto Cave) we investigated the area north of Manfredonia in order to get an idea of cavities and their spatial distribution in the ground.In a previous work we tested a 2D approach based on 8 transects. In the present study we used a parallel setting of transects in order to perform a 3D model of the underground structures. Therefore three different arrays were tested, Dipol-Dipol; Wenner and Schlumberger. Schlumberger array is said to be superior in distinguishing lateral from vertical variations in resistivity in respect to Wenner. Whereas Dipol-Dipol array is especially useful for measuring lateral resistivity changes. The utilized electrode spacing for the surface transects was 2m. In order to calibrate and validate the analys is we made 2 core drillings yielding information on the stratigraphy and cavities in the underground. With the given value ranges and the respective electric resistivity arrays we were able to identify the location and depth of the major cavities in 3D fora ca. 25 ha test plot are

MAREGOT project experience: Integrated approach to understanding coastal dynamics behaviour

This paper describes the MAREGOT (MAnagement des Risques de l'Erosion coti\ue8re et actions de GOuvernance Transfrontali\ue8re) approach to evaluate hydro-mophodinamic behaviuor using different methods on embayed beach in eastern Liguria (Mediterranean NW). Project aimed at the joint prevention and management of the risks arising from coastal erosion in the cooperation area; It is strategic project of 2014 - 2020 INTERREG V Italy - France (Maritime). The research was composed by field survey, coastal modelling and remote sensing; as a first step, investigation was conducted comparing two topo-batimetric surveys which were made six months apart. At same time coastal video monitoring, composed by two cameras, was used to evaluate principal surface currents and coastal model XBeach was computed to simulate hydrodynamic evolution. In all three applied methods, results came out cross-shore flow close to coastal structures, which could be used by local authorities to define coastal manager plan, evaluating risks related to seaward flows for bathers